Sustainable Travel Guide: Marrakech, Morocco
Want to travel but keen to do it sustainably? Consider using my sustainable travel guides - I will share tips for how to use sustainable transport, book green accommodation as well as seek out the best sustainable, independent eateries, shops and more when you get to your destination - as well as the usual tips for things to do! I am a pretty frugal traveller so hope to be able to share how to travel green on a budget too.
I booked a week in Marrakech for me and my family (there’s five of us, four adults and one 13 year old) for May school half term 2022, flying from London Heathrow to Marrakech Menara. I booked our flights + hotel as a package through Expedia. This turned out to be the perfect time to go as it was between the high and low season when the weather starts to become slightly unbearable (from 30s to 39/40 degrees C!). We’ve wanted to go to Marrakech for a long time and we were NOT disappointed - it is definitely one of my favourite cities I’ve visited. Think bustling souks, incredible colorful, opulent Islamic architecture everywhere, gorgeous heat, and lots of cats. Read on for top tips, things to do and see, and how to do it all sustainably!
THE VIBE IN MARRAKECH
When choosing somewhere to go on holiday, of course the general vibe and atmosphere is how you decide whether it is the right place for you and for the holiday you have in mind. The first thing you’ll notice about Marrakech is that it is hectic, but the unique design of the Medina (historic old town in North African countries) means that you’re only ever seconds away from a peaceful oasis away from the hustle and bustle - whether that’s a Riad (traditional guesthouse) or a maintained public garden, of which there are plenty. There is lots to see in Marrakech and the surrounding settlements, but I think the reason people find a few days plenty is because of the chaos! If you don’t mind it, then you could stay for a couple of weeks if you wanted to ‘complete’ it.
It has such a rich history linked to the rest of Morocco, and there are endless museums and sites of interest where you can satisfy the history buff in you. It is definitely a hot city break, rather than a beach holiday - the nearest beaches are Essaouira or Agadir which are around three hours away. It is quite cheap for those on a budget. In terms of the food, I wouldn’t say it is the most cosmopolitan (which can be a good thing!) so you will find traditional Moroccan food on every corner - think mild, sweet, tomato-ey tagines, cous cous and chicken shawarma, lots of different types of bread, as well as what seems like a French colonial hangover - crepes!
One of the many arches of the Medina, Marrakech. Photography credit to author
TRANSPORATION
The easiest way to get to Morocco from anywhere outside of Morocco is to fly. Lots of people combine a few Moroccan cities if staying for a week or more which I would recommend doing to save on emissions, assuming you would come back to do those trips. You can hire a car or get coaches/buses between Moroccan cities, both are popular options. If you wanted to make a huge effort to be sustainable though, you can take the long route of rail and/or sail…
This would take you:
England -> France (Eurostar)
France -> Spain (TGV)
Spain -> Portugal (Spanish trains)
Portugal -> Morocco (either ferry or train)
You can then get around Morocco by train, by road or domestic flight! Check out my go to, The Man in Seat 61 for a detailed route if wanting to avoid flying or trying something new. Personally, we drove to Heathrow, parked in the long-stay car park, flew to Morocco via Lisbon and then back in the same way. But I would be so keen for trying the above adventure - you could combine seeing so many gorgeous countries and get an idea of how Morocco was established and where its influence sits today, especially if you stop somewhere like Ceuta which is a Spanish autonomous region on Moroccan mainland, or even in Tangier.
To get around Marrakech, you can reach most places of interest on foot, as the majority of them are concentrated in or around the Medina where it’s the best idea to stay (more on this in the next section). The next best option for within Marrakech is hire a taxi. If you’re a party of more than four people, it is difficult to flag down bigger cars as Marrakech is so compact, so you will likely have to book a car through the hotel which is what we did. Lastly, for day trips, you can either take a private driver, use a bus/coach service, or hire a car.
ACCOMODATION
You can’t go to Marrakech without staying in a riad - a traditional guesthouse! A riad is is a type of traditional Moroccan and Andalusi interior garden or courtyard associated with house and palace architecture - many of these are now in use as guesthouses and are absolutely stunning. After a few hours in Marrakech you’ll see this architecture copied and pasted everywhere. Lots of people who visit Marrakech will riad-hop and stay a couple of nights in one riad and then move onto the next - definitely do this if you feel comfortable, there are lots fairly close together. Riads are often independent and family-run and are in the heart of the Medina (rather than being part of an expanse of hotel chains) and value local business and authentic Moroccan hospitality and ways of living. Because of this, staying in a riad is the eco choice which supports the local economy. The alternative in Marrakech is staying in the Palmeraie which is outside of the Medina, which means you’re not as close to the main attractions and will have to be shuttled by taxi everywhere. It is also specifically built for tourists and is surrounded by gold courses, so I would not recommend if you want an authentic experience. That being said there are some great family-run hotels there too… just try not to book into an Ibis!
We stayed in the lovely Riad Melhoun & SPA which was a 10/10 experience - the staff were a delight, the riad was gorgeous and it was a perfect location. We loved speaking to the staff about Marrakechi culture and getting tips from them as locals, rather than as salespeople! They also made us feel safe and well looked after - can’t fault our experience. Check out their website here, they’re also on all the standard hotel booking sites. We organised our hotel transfer through the riad too for 15€ each way to save hassle and to avoid being scammed in a new country. Marrakech Menara Airport is only ten minutes from the Medina where the riads are concentrated so it’s a super quick journey.
Riad Melhoun. Medina, Marrakech. Photography credit to author
THINGS TO DO/SEE
I’ve organised this into the areas the attractions fall into to help guide your itinerary. The Medina, where the majority of attractions are located, is very walkable and it’s actually the only way to get around the narrow alleyways which are characteristic of Marrakech - cars can’t physically get into them! To go a bit further out you can book a taxi (I recommend doing this through your hotel) which we did a couple of times. I will also list some of the top day / overnight trips you can do from Marrakech. To be a savvy eco traveller, pick ethical, authentic experiences and avoid tourist traps which rarely benefit or represent local people and culture.
Medina - this is the heart of Marrakech and where most attractions are located. Here you will find the UNESCO World Heritage Site Jmaa-el-Fna Square (visit both day and night), Mellah / Place des Ferblantiers (the old Jewish quarter), Koutoubia Mosque, Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace, Le Jardin Secret, Ben Youssef Madrasa, Marrakech Museum, Bab Agnaou, Saadian Tombs, Dar Si Said Museum, Marrakech Museum, Dar el Bacha – Musee des Confluences, Perfume Museum, La Maison de la Photographie de Marrakech, Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum, Musee Tiskiwin
Outside the Medina - Museum of African Contemporary Art Al Maaden, Les Jardins Majorelle & Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Gueliz (the modern European area containing high street and designer shopping, Menara Airport and Menara Gardens), Marrakech La Palmeraie
Day/overnight trips outside of Marrakech - Agafay Desert, Ourzazate and Ait Benhaddou, Atlas Mountains & Ouirgane (Berber village), Ourika Valley, Ouzoud Waterfalls, Toubkal National Park, Tinmel Mosque, Essaouira (stop in a women’s argan oil cooperative on the way), Sahara Desert (overnight) Agadir (overnight)
Out of the places we visited, my favourites were: Ben Youssef Madrasa for the stunning architecture and great story behind the complex; Dar Si Said Museum where you can learn about the craftsmanship behind creating the famous Moroccan rugs; La Maison de la Photographie de Marrakech due to the way it told the story of how photography came to Marrakech and the gorgeous building it is hosted in (and because I’m a photography nerd); and Essaouira, a lovely fishing village and UNESCO site. I do wish we had planned to spend a couple of days there as it was a long journey there and back for just a day trip. I booked the Essaouira trip through Viator and would really recommend, it was well-priced and went smoothly. I also would have loved to make time to spend a night in the Sahara Desert and go to the Atlas Mountains!
SUSTAINABLE EATS
As I mentioned before, Marrakech (at least within the Medina) is not the most cosmopolitan of cities - that means you can get standard Marrakechi fare wherever you go. I made sure to try all the local specialities: tagine, cous cous, tanjia, msemen, pastilla, harira and nuss nuss coffee. Moroccan food is pretty veggie/vegan friendly; they are really keen on their fruits and vegetables in all dishes and really happy to accommodate. A word of caution though that many eateries are tourist traps - especially around Jmaa-el-Fna Square. Here are some great options (descriptions taken from various websites):
Henna Cafe - More than just a cafe, this is a registered Cultural Association. It provides a multi cultural meeting place; a community cafe; a henna salon which offers an educational henna experience to visitors; a gallery of art by local aspiring artists and runs a weekly kids club offering free creative activities to the children of the Bab Doukalla area of the city. All of the profits from the cafe and the henna experience are used to provide assistance in Marrakech in the form of free education and supportive projects.
Henna Art Cafe - the café not only serves food but offers Henna tattoos and sells artwork. Lori also runs Six Degrees Consortium, a charity that uses and creates art as a way to address social and cultural barriers and the café also works closely with El Fenn Maroc, a non-profit cultural association supporting Moroccan artists and communities. The café only hires Moroccan staff and promotes and sells the work of many local artists, which then helps fund the projects.
Earth Cafe - Marrakech’s only dedicated vegetarian/vegan cafe. The owner of Earth Café, Barakat, grows most of the fresh ingredients on his farm just outside of Marrakech, and guests can even arrange to visit this farm and participate in cooking classes. Earth Cafe now has two outlets. However, only the first restaurant in the southern Medina offers a completely meat-free menu.
Nomad - In Jmaa-el-Fna, Fresh local products, revisited Moroccan cuisine, and a great rooftop view.
Chez Maazouz - Another hidden gem in Jmaa-el-Fna, just off Spices Square, beautiful traditional Berber inspired decor on the middle floor with an excellent rooftop view. Authentic made to order dishes - this was my favourite spot to eat!
Cafe des Epices - Café des épices is a world-renowned Café restaurant that attracts people from all over the world, with its red Marrakech Tadelakt you are bound to fall in love with Anne Favier’s decoration that reminds you of Morocco’s culture, art and crafts
Amal Centre - Amal Women's Training Center and Moroccan Restaurant is a non-profit organization in Marrakesh, Morocco, that helps disadvantaged women gain work experience by training them in the preparation of Moroccan food and international food.
Bacha Coffee - After visiting the stunning Dar el Bacha Museum of Confluences, entering this on-site cafe is like taking a step back into the 1920s. The coffee bar and restaurant is a must for caffeine lovers, given its extensive list of over 200 varieties of coffee, including some rare types.
Jemma el Fna Stall 14 - Despite tourist traps all around Jmaa-el-Fna, stall No. 14 is worth seeking out. The stand serves a menu of fish and seafood, always sourced fresh each day and always fried. The food markets in Jmaa-el-Fna open in the early evening, so go after 5pm
La Famille - Vegetarian restaurant offering two different dishes every day is located in the heart of a busy souk street. The plates are usually vegetarian, but you can ask the staff to make it vegan.
Café Clock - The intercultural Café Clock originated in Fez and has now opened more branches in Chefchaouen and Marrakech. Concerts, readings, exhibitions and cooking classes all take place in the café. On the menu are numerous options for vegetarians, including a vegetarian tapas selection, Pastilla, tabouleh and falafel. The cafe also serves meat dishes. There are freshly-squeezed juices and smoothies.
Fresh orange juice - you will notice orange juice stalls everywhere and is a menu mainstay in cafes. Make the most of this and quench your thirst with freshly squeezed orange juice wherever you go!
SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING
One of my favourite travel experiences in Asia, North Africa and the Middle East is exploring the bustling, labyrinthine souks/bazaars/markets.
You will get confused exploring the narrow, windy streets and alleyways in Marrakech’s Medina, but all roads lead to Jmaa-el-Fna which is reassuring and helps you to reorientate when you are lost. The souks have both locally produced, artisan products and tourist traps selling mass produced trinkets. It is quite hard to make a distinction sometimes, especially since Moroccans love a hard sell and there are so many similar looking spots. I think it’s a case of using your intuition and asking questions, but some spots are really unique and clearly authentic gems run by local people with local products. Here are a few I came across and some more I would recommend in Marrakech:
I recommend checking out museum and other attraction shops for artisan items made by local people and artists.
In terms of the central souks around Jmaa-el-Fna, my favourite area by far were the souks and little boutiques around Jardin Secret going towards Marrakech Museum and the Ben Youssef complex. It’s quieter, the vendors are less pushy, but most importantly the shops here are really unique and there’s lots of independent boutiques. More expensive than the bulk of the souks of course but it does reflect the true cost of the product using the best local materials and paying local fairly. If you wander around you will come across loads of cool spots!
For upcycled treasures, check out Créations Pneumatiques
I was chuffed when I came across Zen Kesh, a lovely quiet row of shops selling homeware and accessories tucked away up some stairs just off Jmaa-el-Fna, owned by three fabulous creative Moroccan brothers who make gorgeous items which brighten up any contemporary home anywhere in the world. I bought a bag that was handmade there by one of the artisans. They are really active on Instagram and you can even order their goods to be shipped worldwide!
Once a Berber tribal ingredient, argan oil is now a multi million dollar industry and highly prized by the global cosmetics world for its anti-ageing properties. To buy sustainable, ethical argan oil, go to a reputable women’s co-operative such as the Amal Center and Al Kawtar in Marrakech, or the Marquetry Cooperative in Essaouira. We went to one en route to Essaouira
The Anou Cooperative is an award winning collective of over 600 artisans from cooperatives, associations, and workshops across Morocco. The Anou Cooperative is owned and managed by Morocco's artisan community and is open to all authentic artisans committed to quality and transparency - you can organize a visit to the one closest to Marrakech, a leather cooperative, through their website
There is a flea market in Marrakech too to pick up unique, preloved gems for just a few dirhams. Check out the Thursday flea market at Bab El Khemis
Authentic souvenir ideas beyond keyrings and magnets? Buy lanterns, rugs and other traditional home decoration such as the green ceramics you will see everywhere, tagine and other clay pottery, Moroccan spice mixes like ras el hanout, argan oil and zellig tile
Lantern shop in the Medina. Photography credit to author
TOP TIPS
If you don’t speak Arabic, brush up on your French. Most signs and exhibits in museums are in French, English text does exist but it is sporadic whereas French is everywhere. It will help too when you speak to Moroccans of course, and will give you a leg up when haggling. Note that most Moroccans speak a combination of the local Arabic dialect (Darija) which isn’t mutually intelligible with other Arabic dialects, and French. You will be greeted with Merhaba which means hello, and thank you is Shukran.
Don’t allow strangers to show you around or take their offer to show you to a tourist attraction. They will expect a tip for the favor. We managed to not get mugged off this way until we got back to the airport on our last day, and someone offered to get us a luggage trolley and take us to the check in desk… we thought it was a standard hospitality practice, but he then of course asked for a tip.
If you don’t decide to use roaming data on your phone, you can use your GPS on maps apps to get around the winding souks - this saved us so many times!
Drink lots of orange juice and mint tea
Agree prices of taxis and goods firmly before exchanging money
Spend time on one of the many terrasses (rooftops) of Marrakech, which are a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of mopeds and people and great for people watching, watching the cogs of the Medina turning. Most buildings, even small cafes and takeaways have rooftops to enjoy as Marrakech rarely gets rain. Fun fact, no building is allowed to be taller than the Koutoubia Minaret, so Marrakech has a very flat skyline.
Don’t try and squeeze in too much - the Medina is hectic and you will want to spend time soaking up the sun and people watching with an OJ on a rooftop, relaxing in your riad by the pool, as well as see all the sights dotted around the Medina and do day trips. Definitely plan well as some things are very close to other attractions, and make time for a day trip or two. We found a week was a good amount of time to be able to relax as well as see a good amount of things, but we still ran out of time for a bunch of day trips and things we wanted to see.
I’m trying to make sustainable travel guides A THING and when I have been researching I’ve found it really hard to read experiences from other travelers wanting to do the same. It was great to see an Eco Age article for sustainable travel in Marrakech by Rosanna Falconer, read it here!